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Wanted - Rear Drum Brakes

Printed From: Porsche Racing Drivers
Forum Name: 2006 Season
Forum Discription: 2006 Season
URL: http://www.porscheracingdrivers.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=415
Printed Date: 01 December 2007 at 6:20pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 7.9 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Wanted - Rear Drum Brakes

Posted By: alanf_uk2002
Subject: Wanted - Rear Drum Brakes
Date Posted: 20 November 2006 at 1:27pm

Just wondered whether any one has got a pair of rear drums with back plate & shoes for sale?

If any one can help I'd be grateful.

Thanks

Alan



Replies:

Posted By: Scotty
Date Posted: 20 November 2006 at 2:59pm

Hi Alan,

I have a brand new nearside backplate you can have for £20 (cost £30), let me know if you are interested.

Cheers,

Tim.


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Tim Scott
EX No. 8



Posted By: alec#97
Date Posted: 21 November 2006 at 1:22pm

Hi Alan

Getting the rear brakes sorted on these cars is one of the best things you can do. The bits aren't very expensive. People who have ventilated the back plates have reported problems that could be down to the back plate flexing.

Eurocarparts sell new backplates for about £25 apiece and the hydraulic cylinders for about £12.

Lodge Sports can provide EBC brake shoes, drums and fitting kits at a good price.

Key thing in my experience is to note that the bearing face of the adjusters isn't symmetrical. You need to install them with the thin edge to the top. Until I found this out I had a problem with the rears locking early and burning through a set of shoes per race.

Best of luck

Alec




Posted By: Phil
Date Posted: 21 November 2006 at 3:42pm

Alan,

One point I would add to Alec's reply is to use good quality brake shoes. At one stage I was using the cheap ones from G&S and they only lasted a few races. I then switched to Ferodo (you can order them from Halfords for about £20) and they last all season. I must admit I don't know what the rear brakes do apart from hold the wheels on! The regs state that the handbrake must be connected, but mine is slackened right off to ensure that it cannot hold the shoes onto the drums.

G&S also sell the drums.

Good luck,

Phil




Posted By: Steve B
Date Posted: 21 November 2006 at 8:16pm

 

Hi

To add to the discussion, my rear brakes are on manual adjusters (Haynes manual suggests some had autoatic ones) I adjusted mine right up so they could just be felt to touch the drums when spinning the wheel. This seemed to make a big difference to the pedal position. i.e higher when pressing hard.

Ive also invested in a 6ft scaffold pole the get the hub nut undone!! how tight?!!

 

Steve

 

 



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Steve B
RED 60 Racing!



Posted By: alanf_uk2002
Date Posted: 22 November 2006 at 1:23pm

Cheers guys

After trying to source some second-hand drums I've plumped for buying complete new brakes - £180

Alan




Posted By: garyduckman
Date Posted: 22 November 2006 at 10:13pm

Hi Alan,

£180!!! - you are not allowed to use 997 Turbo stuff you know!

I guess you plan to do drums, shoes and cylinders? - still seems a lot to me!

I go to http://www.type911.co.uk - www.type911.co.uk - may save you some dosh?

For info, I used textar shoes with brand new drums and cylinders (at the start of the year), adjust them up till they lock and then back 4 clicks, ensuring they are the same both sides.

Make sure your wheel cylinders are good and that your front brakes are perfect too!

I used a set of shoes every 4 races or so and I am sure most drivers would agree that one of my best driving abilities is late braking - this was helped by excellent, stable rear brakes. If I made sure they were perfectly adjusted it was easier to left foot brake mid corner and assist the car in turning on the faster tracks too.

Rear brakes.... overlooked by too many people.

Gazza

 

 



-------------
Gazza 5
http://www.duckman.co.uk - http://www.duckman.co.uk




Posted By: martinhall
Date Posted: 23 November 2006 at 11:14pm

Hi Alan,

Questmead can reline the shoes in mintex material which I have found to be very good.  New cylinders are a must, along with braided brake lines and good racing fluid, I use Mintex, but AP, Castrol and ATE fluid is probably just as good.

Adjusting the rear brakes is an art if you havent done much of it (I learnt on a Viva van and Opel Kadett!!!!)  The important thing is to have both the leading and trailing shoe doing a fair share of the work.  Make sure everything is free to move, and use new springs and retainers.  £180 is far too much to be paying for new drums, shoes, cylinders and retainers.  Shop around and with the money you save buy everyone a drink at the party!

Martin




Posted By: alanf_uk2002
Date Posted: 24 November 2006 at 8:22am

Hi guys

All the bits have arrived and I shall have fun this weekend putting it all together. I'll probably be back to you guys about setting the brakes up...

As for the price for the parts, I thought I'd done pretty well. If anywhere can beat what I paid please let me know:-

Brake drums - £28.50 (Eurocarparts were cheaper at £26.95) x2 (Brembo)

Brake Shoes - £9.75 x 2 (Pagid)

Brake shoe adjuster bolt - £1.00 x 2

Brake shoe adjuster star wheel - £1.50 x 4

Back plate - £17.50 x 2

Fitting kit - £4.50 x 2

Wheel Cylinder - £11.50 x 2 (ATE)

Back plate lug - £0.50 x 4

All prices plus 17.5%. No carriage.

The obvious mistake was buying 2 lots of brake shoes and 2 lots of fitting kits. Fortunately the brakes on my Formula Vee are the same so I'll rebuild the brakes on that ready for next season - March 11 at Mallory - it's gonna be frickin freezing!

Cheers

Alan




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